Mastery of Design: A Commesso Pendant with a Female Bust, circa 1550

Commesso Pendant
Italian, circa 1550
From the collection og Queen Caroline
Gold, amethyst, ruby, garnets, emerald, carnelian
The Royal Collection

A commesso is a piece of jewelry which incorporates a cameo figure onto a gold background. The word is often used to refer to Italian gems which were later combined with other pieces.

This commesso was found in 1755 in a drawer of a jewel cabinet in Kensington Palace. Made around 1550 in Italy, the piece almost certainly belonged to Queen Caroline, the consort of King George II. Here, we see a female bust in profile. She’s “dressed” in a gown of amethyst. Her face is comprised of carnelian, surmounted by chased gold tendril for her hair. Also sparkling against the punched gold background, is the brooch which fastens her robe, set in gold. He turban is adorned with a ruby, two garnets and an emerald.